Friday, August 31, 2012

K1 GBA Decals now available

New decals for k1 released look amazing professionally fitted before your k1 ships they look amazing not only do they look great they protect your precious from erveyday scratches I just ordered the link is as follows

Thanks to PJ for the news!

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

New Archos Gamepad android game console announced


This week the folks at ARCHOS have revealed the GamePad, a gaming tablet with physical controls integrated into the device itself. This device brings on a lovely 7-inch display made to display games like the brand new Gameloft title Asphalt 7 – a racing game to be reckoned with. This device comes packed with a 1.5GHz dual-core processor paired with a Mali 400mp quad-core GPU for high-class graphics.

This device is an officially Google-licensed device, meaning you’ve got full access to Google Play for apps as well as media of all types – music, music, magazines, and books. ARCHOS also notes that this device works with a brand new bit of technology that ensures control compatibility with every advanced Android game: “automatic game recognition and mapping tools.” You’ll be able to play anything!

This device takes on the Android gaming dream, what ARCHOS describes as follows:

“Until now, tablets provided gamers with touch controls that lacked response and compatibility for their advanced games, providing a disappointing gaming experience. As one of the main tablet uses, there is a strong need for a tablet that does more for gaming. Thanks to the complete touch and physical controls of the ARCHOS GamePad, Gamers can enhance their experience.”

This device will be popping up with Android 4.0 Ice Cream Sandwich, the first Google mobile OS to get game controller support right in the software framework. Once Ice Cream Sandwich was introduced, several groups started developing games that are ready to use 3rd party controllers. The ARCHOS GamePad will be able to work with those games, but with a brand new bit of mapping and game recognition tech, they’ll be able to make use of any virtual controls, mapped to the physical control buttons of the GamePad.

Gamepad – what an … imagimative … name. Still, this promises much! Discuss this here!

JXD S602 Preview by Willgoo – and win a free one!

The upcoming NEW Device- JXD S602 with Android 4.0 Multi-playing 4GB

I do not know how many people like JXD S601 here. But I can see there are many people keep talking about it from its first releasing. And now, JXD is going to release its upgraded version called JXD S602:

Currently, this new JXD s602 is still not available. We will test it and bring you more details about it in these coming days. At the same time, We will update its real stock once we restock it. Finally, we will pick out one person whose comment is the most excellent for this device. And give away one FREE unit for him when this device is available. So say something about this new upcoming device. At the same time, I will make more testing for this device in these coming days and post them here. You guys can tell me what you want me to test. I will try my best to give you the answer. See some pictures for this device here:

Main features of JXD S602:
Android 4.0 system
WiFi multi-link playing
HDMI dual output( one on HDMI TV, one on JXD S602)
supports buttons mapping for Android games
more beautiful designs than JXD S601

Willgoo will be testing further – and you might like to join the contest for best comment on this thread !

Lolicopocalypse For Dingux

Lolicopocalypse For Dingux
August 28, 2012, 11:20:50 AM by qbertaddict
Here we have a game that was part of the Ludum Dare competition. It was created in 2 days! It is a rouge type game.

Roguelikish movement. Evolution takes place not only on the level - the screen rots, all colors mutate...

Made with SDL+OpenGL+SDL_mixer and software pixelated renderer for mobile devices

Author/Porter: quasist

OhBoy For The Dingoo Native OS Updated

OhBoy For The Native OS Updated
August 28, 2012, 10:55:17 AM by qbertaddict
OhBoy for the native OS has been updated with a few small changes.

Ok, i've had this sitting in my HD for months, so i've decided to release it.

New Ohboy version (20120815).

Until it is updated in Openhandhelds, you

Changes from last Dingoo version:

- Minor changes (DemoVision palettes and filters). (And of course, background BMPs)

Included are SIM and APP versions.

Discuss it here:
Author/Porter: hi-ban
Download Source:

Monday, August 27, 2012

Tehcrucible releases update to Droid X360 Super Script


Hey guys, v0.3 of SuperScript is finally up!  I've updated the OP.  HUGE swag of features and improvements in this one so go take a look.  Please give me feedback and bug reports! 
NOTE: I do recommend running this version of SuperScript from a fresh install.  I know its a pain in the arse but after this version, you do not need to factory restore anymore so hopefully this will be the last time! ;D

- Significant tidy up of code and dependencies
- Cleanest, fastest version of SuperScript to date
- Consolidated Steps 3-5 into "Express" step
- Option to incrase system UI size
- Better touchscreen sensitivity and responsiveness
- Increased WiFi speeds
- Increased battery life
- Remaps gamepad controls to correct "gamepad" keycodes
- Removes Apex Launcher as default
- Restores File Browser app
- Updated Google Apps & patched Play Store again
- No need to restore factory settings after install
NOTE REGARDING UPGRADES:  This version of SuperScript is by far the cleanest and most stable version to date.  I have worked very hard to remove unnecessary files, commands and dependencies and to tweak as specifically as possible. As such, I STRONGLY recommend you run v0.3 from a fresh install of Willgoo's firmware. 
v0.3 has removed the need to restore to factory defaults after the script so, in theory, you could simply run v0.3 over the top of v0.2 and see how you go.  However, for best results, you will want to run from a clean flash.  v0.3 will be the basis of future work on the SuperScript and I will endeavor to not ask you to restore factory again! =)
Also, please note the system UI size feature is still experimental.  While I haven't encountered any errors so far, I can't guarantee all apps will run correctly when using a non-standard DPI setting.  Please let me know if you find any bugs!

Get it here:

PC Engine - Dingux-Hugo for Dingoo A-380 and A-320e


Hello my friends.  ;D
Here's a PC Engine - Dingux-Hugo test version to try out. There's still some work to do and I didn't try it myself yet but I let you do the testing and let me know if it works.
All credits go to the Hu-Go - PC Engine emulator team and ZX-81 for his Dingoo port.
Download test version:

Friday, August 24, 2012

Dingoo A380 Dosbox – running games and Windows 3.1


by Fabriciowilbert1
This video is a small sample of DOSBox public alpha test. Many told me that it was impossible to play with DOSBox but I kept trying and got it, hope you like it, have a little tutorial on dingoobr forum if anyone's interested. Hugs.

World Heroes Supreme Justice for Dingoo

World Heroes Supreme Justice (XBOX,WII,PSP,GP2X,DINGOO,WIZ)

Hello everyone!Finally the consoles version is ready too!


This is the XBOX,WII,PSP,GP2X,DINGOO,WIZ version only.Not for psp phat!
(For PC download the PCversion)
The game is tested with the OpenBOR v3.0 Build 3675 engine which is included in download.

5 playble characters + 1 secret character

The game uses 4 buttons :

(Be sure to define the key buttons before you play!)

You can combine Punch and Kick combos like:

About the rest moves and how everything works,check the "moves_list.txt" or the "How to play" screen.

Special thanks to Bloodbane and Damon CasKey
for all the scripts this game uses!

Download link:;sa=view;down=278

Last update at 23/08/2012
Added alternate color palettes for the playable characters.
While you select character press Up or Down to switch on different color palettes.

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

DeenOX’s Droid X360 Keypad Mod!

DeenOX shows how to fix perhaps the Droid X360’s greatest design flaw.  The original is in Spanish here, or you can read googly translated English here:


Droid X360 D-PAD Simple Mod

On the use of this article

The original source of this article is at this link . Permission to use the content of this article or any part thereof, provided that the source is mentioned and its original author. I am not responsible for any damage that may occur to any device by trying to follow the instructions in this article.


After writing the article Droid X360 console and see that a problem as silly as the poor design of the D-PAD could remove all the good that can offer that console, I decided to try to find a solution that on one hand it be most crude and simplistic, but otherwise just wanted something that was easy to do for anyone who wants to try it simple with more elaborate solutions.

This solution is inspired by the original mod I did at the time to the PSP FAT (which was later known as " Coronita Mod "), that first hit the market they had a problem with the D-PAD and not allowed to perform properly diagonals, but with a very simple change could substantially improve the response of the D-PAD and the overall experience with this console.

I encourage anyone with this console who dares to make the change, as it is very simple and is of complexity or modding itself, or open the console. want to clarify that I am not an electronics technician, I have not even understand electronics . I decided to just open the console to show that does not require much technical knowledge to implement a solution of this type. Obviously there will be many other options better than this and with better results, but I believe that I present here is simpler than it occurred to me that I can apply to any user who wants to try.

Items needed for Modding.

Watchmaker screwdrivers (for electronics)
Insulating tape
Droid X360 console black. (Can also be white, if not available black color)


Cut two pieces about 3 inches of duct tape

Paste a piece over the other.

Cut thin strips, about 5 ~ 6mm thick (the same thickness as the axes of the D-PAD console

You have to cut about 4 ~ 6 strips. The amount depends on the thickness you want to give the D-PAD to increase the relief to the touch.
Note : We should not put too, because the D-PAD would become extremely sensitive and would be unusable in practice.

At first I put only 4 strips, but I had to put two extras to give more sensitivity.

Then glue a strip with another forming a cross. Repeat the process interspersed with vertical horizontal strips to have the 4 ~ 6 strips glued
Note : You can also paste directly into the D-PAD.

At the end, we will have a cross with all we've pasted strips

Now let's disarm the console.

There are 4 external screws on the console:

1 - Among the trigger [L] and [Vol-]
2 - Between the [Power] and trigger [R]

3 - Next to the charger connector
4 - Next to the [Reset]

To open the console, put your fingernail or a estornillador (carefully) for the space in the [R] or [L]

When open, be careful not to pull the speaker wires, and remove the pieces of the buttons (small plate membrane switch) to fully access the console plate.

(Removing the membrane switch)

(This small plate is the emergency stop circuit)

Note : It is not absolutely necessary to remove the emergency stop circuit, but it is more convenient to work to lift the plate if it is removed from its socket.

The console can be opened like a book console without problems, as shown in the photo.

Note : Remove the [L] and [R] to avoid losing by an accidental fall.

Here we see the back of the console.

As I mentioned at the beginning, I tried to make this as simple as possible modding. To access the Part D-PAD, simply remove the screws from the right side of the picture above (screws with the numbers 1 to 4), and loosen the screws on the left side of the 5 to 7), and the help of a screwdriver, a little lever on the right side of the picture to lift the plate and, with tongs, remove the part of the D-PAD.

In my case, I have removed all the screws to access the part of the D-PAD.

When open, be careful not to pull a lot of the console, not the strips off the screen data.

Now, glue the piece that we created with the duct tape on the back of the D-PAD

Here, we can see the thickness to win the D-PAD with the piece and glued

We put the D-pad in place. If only we have removed the screws on one hand, help us with tweezers to put the piece back in place.

If instead we have removed all the plaque, we'll take special care that the buttons are not misplaced console having rested on the table (I had to open a couple of times the console, some buttons were bad ports , with letter inverted or no contact made as matched).

Now we will close again put the screws in the plate. The screws marked in the picture above with the numbers 1 to 4, will serve 3 functions:

* To position the plate correctly in the console chassis.
* Adjust the "hardness" of the D-PAD with the new Modding
* Stick adjust left movement, and thereby prevent it from being caught on the edge of the console.

If we push a lot these screws, the D-PAD will have more relief, will be harder to touch but too sensitive to be used in the console.

Furthermore, if these screws are tight, the jam begin to stick to the edge of the chassis.

Therefore, these screws should be snug, but not overly tight. The Stick should be a good indicator of how they are to tight. If the stick is moved properly without getting stuck, then you should be fine.

Before closing the console follow, we will play with your fingers to see if the 4 directional have a similar feel to the touch (not to be one harder than the other). If necessary, re-tighten the screws or remove to access the part of the D-PAD and make necessary corrections. (Here it's a little matter of preference on how sensitive you want it is the D-PAD.'s A bit of trial and error)

To continue closing the console, carefully relocating the circuits of the buttons (if any had removed earlier) along with its membrane

We take to put the trigger buttons on the console, taking care to that corresponding to each side: L = Left and R = Right (facing the front console)

Now, let's see the differences

Left on D-PAD original when pressed in one direction, and right as it has been now.


You can see now is a little more raised (more like what a PSP when you press the D-PAD)

And the diagonal, left before modding, and right as it has become now.


And the comparison with PSVita

Well, is just try it ...

It works! (Although apparently I have to do some adjustment to the left side of the D-pad, which is a little harder than the rest)

I hope this guide / tuto be useful for those who want to improve their D-PAD X360 Droid.

Zalu2! Deen0X

OpenPandora 1Ghz Unboxing

1 Ghz Openpandoras … what’s next?!

CyanogenMod7 and a few apps / games running on the Pandora (DM3730)
You can use the Pandora hardware keyboard and gaming controls, so besides having a Mini Linux PC you can now also use it as a Mini Android PC.
The port still has some quirks, but it runs pretty well already.

More information can be found here:


Handy320 - Atari Lynx emulator for OpenDingux

Handy320 - Atari Lynx emulator for OpenDingux

Hi, everybody.

Handy320 v0.1 for Dingux and OpenDingux

Based on:
Handy/SDL 0.5 (c) 2004 SDLemu team
Handy 0.95 (c) 2004 K. Wilkins
Gui browser is mostly copy-pasted from gpSP by Exophaze
icon is from coccijoe's HandyOD

What's new compared to Handy/SDL 0.5
- Simple gui with rom browser is added
- Load/save states are working
- Two image scalers: simple2x and fullscreen
- Better synchronizing and better sound quality

There are 2 binaries in the archive,
handy320-od.dge - for OpenDingux (Dingoo A320)
handy320.dge - for legacy Dingux (Dingoo A380/320e, Ritmix rzx50)

Copy either handy320.dge or handy320-od.dge to some dir on your sd-card or inner flash-memory.
Find real lynxboot.img somewhere in the internet (Google is your friend) and put it in the same directory.
Don't forget to overclock to 420 MHz if you want more speed in heavy games like Batman Returns or Crystal Caves II.

Handy320 supports Dingoo a320, a380 and Ritmix rzx50. Three fullscreen modes could be used:
320x240, 400x240 and 480x272 They are detected automatically, you don't have to worry about them.

Roms should be either *.lnx or *.zip. Yes, zipped roms are supported.

DINGOO A - Atari Lynx A
DINGOO B - Atari Lynx B
DINGOO X - Atari Lynx OPT2
DINGOO Y - Atari Lynx OPT1
DINGOO R - toggle image scalers (simple2x / fullscreen)
NOTE: on Dingoo A380 shifts and X/Y are swapped, it's a firmware bug.


PS: thanks to Alien Grey from A380 subforum who was really interested in this emulator

Sunday, August 19, 2012

ADVANCED HOWTO: Upgrade internal NAND flash on any Android Allwinner A10 device (up to 64GB) - by Furan

Furan is the man … how to really upgrade your RAM in any Allwinner A10 device!

ADVANCED HOWTO: Upgrade internal NAND flash on any A10 device (up to 64GB)

Ever since I saw a YDPG18A mod post where flash was upgraded, I've been curious about upgrading NAND flash. After I started investigating I realized the upgrade mentioned wouldn't work, so I called the guy on it and he mentioned it didn't work, just that he hadn't gotten around to posting about it. If he'd found the exact same model flash chip as the existing one, soldered it on, and reflashed, it would have worked. But a lot of the flash chips used in these devices are old and hard to get ahold of. Luckily, they use a standard footprint (TSOP48), and a standard pinout used for SLC and MLC NAND flash.

When a system is flashed using LiveSuit, LiveSuit first sends over some modules located within the flash image file to load into system memory to assist with the flashing. One of these modules partitions and formats the NAND flash - then individual blobs of data are sent for each partition. The thing about these flash chips is that even though they often come in a TSOP48 package, they all have different model numbers, which can be queried from the chip. They also have different geometry - number of dies in one chip, number of sectors, number of blocks, and page size. The driver only supports the same model of flash for every flash chip the board is populated with - otherwise it will ignore everything but the first chip.

AllWinner has a generic NAND flash driver which is compiled into Android, the bootloader's sprite.axf and U-Boot (on 4.x devices), the generic 'boot' image that jumps to the bootloader, and the binaries that LiveSuit sends over to assist with flashing the device during a flash. This generic driver contains several tables, one for each vendor of NAND supported, containing each supported chip ID, and the geoemetry of those chips. You can see the list here: - it's a short list. The largest flash chips supported are 16GB, and every one I've looked for so far has been hard to get ahold of.

So what I figured I'd do is get an understanding of how the NAND driver works, add support for a new chip, remove the old NAND and solder in the new chip(s), and flash the device. I wanted to try maxng out the possible storage - the largest TSOP48 flash you can get is 32 gigabytes. So I purchased some flash from Avnet - a couple of the Micron MT29F256G08CJAAAWP. (256 gigabit chips, meaning 32 gigabytes). This chip isn't in the Micron table in the AllWinner NAND driver. Worse, I found out I had to add support to all of the modules I mentioned above - even though they use the same NAND driver, source code is not available for them so it's not possible to rebuild them.

Desoldering the old flash was something I had to take great care with. In the Yinlips case, these flash chips are glued to the board with a weak glue. But strong enough that the chip won't easily lift once you liquify the solder. So I slide a razor blade under the chip, gently, not pushing the front against the board (which could have cut traces), and only enough to separate the glue on the chip casing from the board a little bit - the razor blade isn't used to cut the pins of the chip from the board... The choice then is, you can use a hot air rework station to remove the chip, or your soldering iron. My hot air rework station was elsewhere and I was in a hurry to try the new flash out. So what I did was to apply flux to the pins on either side of the chip, and then melt enough solder onto the pins on each side, until I got 2 rows of solder that that just covered the space of all of the pins. I started at one side again and kept the solder liquid with the iron until the solder on all of the pads melted an started to give way. Then I gently lifted from underneath the flash with the razor blade, *gently*, until the device separated from the board. When this happened I used a solder sucker to suck up the solder I'd added to that side of the chip. I repeated the process on the other side, and removed the chip. Then I used flux and solder whick to clean up the pads. To solder both of the new 32 gigabyte chips I used the 'drag' method with a hoof tip, and then went over and cleaned up shorts either by dragging away from the chip onto the leads, or using more solder which. A video of the drag method for soldering can be found here:


And the board:

A Micron NAND table entry looks like this in the driver:
The hard part was figuring out the new 'geometry' to use in the table entry. Unfortunately I looked at the datasheets for several supported chips and the values in the tables mostly didn't match the contents of the datasheets. After trial and error, I found out the following - use the page size and the block size specified by the data sheet. Use the chip count (or die count) specified by the datasheet. To figure out the sector count, multiply block * page * die(chip) count, and divide total flash byte capacity by this number. So for the flash I wanted to add, it had 4 dies, 256 blocks, a page size of 8192 - yielding 8388608. Multiply this by 4 and you get 33554432 - the capacity of the chip (remember 1k is 1024 bytes, not 1000). So I used 4 for the sector value.
I decided to unpack the flash .img, modify the individual binaries, repack, and try to flash the new chips. I used 'imgrepacker' to unpack the flash, and the awesome free hex editor from to modify the files - it can open several files at once and allow you to search across all of them for a pattern. I chose an existing Micron table entry, since I had Micron flash. Each table entry points to an 'architecture' structure which has the special commands needed to talk to that branch of chip. These are pretty generic for simple flash commands but unique for the advanced ones, so it's important to reuse a table entry that matches the brand of your flash. I also confirmed from the chip datsheet that the commands for the new chip matched the commands in the architecture structure for the brand.

Revisiting the driver entry, it looked like this:
In hex, that looks like this:

So what I did was to open all of the binaries in the unpacked flash image, and search for this exact pattern. Once I found it, I overwrote the entry with the hex version of the new table entry.
If the new entry were in the code it would look like this:
As hex, it looks like this:

I searched for, and replaced the block (manually by hitting f3) - you can't do a mass hex-based search and replace in the tool. Once I was done, I saved and closed all of the files, and used imgrepacker to re-pack everything into an .img file. Then I used livesuit to flash the device. It flashed it! But it didn't work, it kept rebooting! For shame!
So I needed to debug the issue. On the yinlips boards, there are pads labeled 'rx' and 'tx' - these are used for serial output on the device, to watch the boot process, interact with u-boot, and as a shell when the device is fully booted. These are 3.3v pads, so you need a 3.3v serial TTL cable. I hooked up device ground, rx, and tx, and used a terminal program to watch the boot process. It turned out that part of the bootloader was doing a CRC on one of the files I needed to modify, and refusing to boot from it if it had changed. The assembly looked like this:

So what I did was to figure out the bytecode modification necessary to disable the CRC check on the file - again the CRC didn't match what was hardcoded in the code because I changed a table entry in the file. I specifically changed "check_file" in sprite.axf to return 0 (success in this case) even if the CRC didn't match. To do this I searched for the bytecode pattern for the old assembly, in the same way as I did the table entries above, with the unpacked image, and replaced it everywhere I found it (multiple images in the flash file will contain sprite.axf) with the new bytecode. Then I saved and closed all the files, repacked the image, and re-flashed
This time it worked! :) Something LiveSuit does, after it creates all the images hardcoded into the partition config file in the flash image, is to create a partition with whatever is left called 'UDISK' - this partition is used for the 'internal sdcard' partition. So on my 4GB device, I went from a 2GB internal sdcard partition to a 58GB one.
I did this modification on a YDPG18A and a YDPG16 and both worked fine. I imagine this will work on any Allwinner A10 based device.

OpenTitus for Dingoo A-380/A-320e


OpenTitus for Dingoo A-380/A-320e
« on: August 17, 2012, 09:07:58 PM »
Here's an OpenTitus version for the Dingoo A-380/A-320e. It's compiled with Ayla's SDLWrapper with some help from Coccijoe. All credits go to the OpenTitus team.

You need the original game files to use OpenTitus.


Have fun!!! 

K1GBA in new form factor … introducing the K101GBA SP clone!

Looks like someone’s found a use for those excess A330 cases at last …

How about using Gemei A330's case for GBA SP? It is K101 GBA SP- hardware clone, 100% game compatibility to GBA roms, unfolded version, excellent button contorl, headphone offered. For more information, visit:

The main differences between the K1 and the K101, apart from the change to a more comfortable form factor, include a more responsive d-pad and buttons. Due to the larger casing, there is space to accommodate a real RTC funtion into the K101, so all your Pokemon games will fully function. Unlike the K1, the K101 includes a normal 3.5mm video output, and headphones are also also supported through a seperate 3.5mm port. You can enjoy its excellent audio output when playing games or listening to MP3s without any special cables or adaptors needed. Coming to the Screen, K101 uses AUO high difinition screen- 3 inches with resolution: 960x480.

More luvverly pictures here!

It retails for $59.99, and you can preorder one from the K1GBA folk here:

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Don’t think I’ve seen one of these before … the DS ML(!)

Over at Tinydeal, yet more Chinese creativity:

Portable Dual LCD Screen Entertainment Video Game Console Player with Stylus for Gamers GLL-100779

Portable Dual LCD Screen Entertainment Video Game Console Player with Stylus for Gamers GLL-100779


High-powered handheld video game console
Dual screen design for multiple view gaming
Color LCD screens are wide format and backlit
Keys and stylus for convenient operation
Touch screen provides a revolutionary new way of playing and controlling games
Draw, sketch, write and send wireless messages with up to 16 other users with the built-in communication tool, PictoChat
Built-in wireless communication allows you share specially designed games, chat, or play real-time multiplayer games
You can download new games and applications via WiFi
Built-in clocks, calendars, microphone and speaker
Supports GBA format game
Built-in rechargeable Li-ion battery
I/O Ports:
----1 x Game Card Slot
----1 x Game Park Slot
----1 x External Extension Connector
----1 x Microphone Port
----1 x 3.5mm Earphone Jack

Does this actually play DS games? I wouldn’t bet on it from the above description. It does appear to support GBA … with some sort of wireless capability, and touch! And those most un-Nintendo like colours (I especially like the “Grass Android Green”) How intriguing! I can think of worse ways to spend $67.60 on this “Portable Dual LCD Screen Entertainment Video Game Console Player with Stylus for Gamers GLL-100779 “! If you must, here is the link!

If anyone gets one, report back please!

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

TehCrucible releases Droid X360 Super Script

V0.2 - FOR ICS 4.04


This script is designed as a "one-click" modification for a stock Droid X360 running ICS 4.04. Please read this guide carefully before using. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBLITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR DATA LOSS. You will need to perform a factory data reset as part of the script. Use at your own risk.  That said, I have tested this many times on a stock Droid X360 without issues.  This script is built on the work of many others much smarter than myself and be sure to check the credits.


- Install Apex Launcher
- Droid X360 optimized settings for Apex Launcher
- Remove HiMarket (Chinese App)
- Option to re-map physical MENU button to BACK or HOME funtions.
- Fixed issues with Google Play. Should work first time now.

I have also included an upgrade option from SuperScript v0.1.  If you are already running SuperScript v0.1, you don't need to re-flash your firmware back to stock.  Instead, simply run Step 8 and follow the instructions.

I have included the free Apex Launcher to replace the stock launcher in this version.  It's the most compatible of the replacement launchers that I tested and dramatically speeds up the UI.  It also adds a whole stack of cool features when it comes to organizing apps etc.  I've included an optimized settings file as well so when you have completed the upgrade go to:

Apex Settings - Backup & Restore - Restore Apex Settings

Finally, you may notice the wallpaper doesn't display correctly after upgrade (black line down left hand side).  To fix, simply re-apply your wallpaper by going to:

Settings - Display - Wallpaper


In a nutshell:

- Backs up important system files
- Removes Chinese apps, keyboards & other crap
- Disables unnecessary Android services & components
- Fixes Google Play & restores missing Google Apps
- Installs Furan's modified keypad driver
- Install Apex Launcher
- Droid X360 optimized settings for Apex Launcher
- Remove HiMarket (Chinese App)
- Option to re-map physical MENU button to BACK or HOME funtions.
- Touchscreen, wiFi & general performance tweaks
- Replaces boring boot animation
- Generally makes your Droid X360 more awesome
- More features to come...


- A Windows PC. I have included drivers for both x86 and x64.
- A USB C (Mini USB) cable.
- To leave your fear of the unknown at the door! Everything else is
in the SUPER SCRIPT folder.


1. Restore your DROID X360 to stock 4.04
2. Install ADB drivers
4. Play some roms!

Detailed step-by-step README.TXT in the folder.


HERE - v0.2 - Without Stock Firmware Bundled

Download firmware manually via Willgoo's link here.


Wallpaper needs to be re-applied after Apex Launcher install.


Willgoo      @Dingoonity

fatesausage   @Slatedroid


v0.2 - 08/08/12
- Added Apex Launcher
- Optimized Apex Launcher settings
- Removed Hi-Market
- Added option to remap MENU button
- Added upgrade from v0.1 option
- Fixed Google Play permissions issue

v0.1 - 06/08/12
Initial release.

New JXD firmware for the JXD S5110, JXD S601 and JXD S5100 released

New JXD firmware for the JXD S5110, JXD S601 and JXD S5100 is now availablefrom their official site:


Not sure what it does … anyone care to report back?